ShareThis The Modern Wayfarer: Menu of a Geisha

Thursday, March 11, 2010

Menu of a Geisha


The most underrated Japanese-ish dish in town resides on East 61st Street at Geisha. The most ironic part of the equation is that it took two Italians [Fabio and Vittorio of Serafina fame] and a Frenchman [Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin] to get there. It’s a bit of a culinary lightbulb joke.
While it is a fusion effort [Franco-Japanese], for whatever that word might mean to you, the menu stays firmly planted in fish thanks to the guidance of Eric Ripert and the execution of protégé Michael Vernon. Salmon marinated in a miso mirin and sake, skate in ponzu and brown butter and a chili-spiked lobster top the standouts here, but none stand out and above the sugarcane lollipop of coriander marinated shrimp. The fare does venture beyond fruit de mer into the realm of a lovely rack of lamb and a formidable fillet mignon.
A word to the wise though for newcomers to this stylish Eastside haunt… come early in Prada. Geisha is a first come, first serve restaurant [no reservations taken past 6.30pm] which makes it both egalitarian and a game of chance. If you set your watch timer while cruising through Barney’s [as referenced in the last entry of this blog], cash out by 5.45 there and head right across the street for some poisson japonais.

Geisha is located at 33 East 61 Street New York, NY 10021 Tel:(212)813-1113

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