Mastering the art of [eating] French cooking

Julie and Julia. That's the inspiration for this entry. This is not to say that I am endeavoring to cook her 524 recipes in 365 days [anyone who has met me will tell you that that is not in anyone's best interest].

What I can do however, is tell you the best way to experience French cuisine in New York.

• Balthazar. This is the one that started the trend of brasserie-mania. Although Balthazar is sometimes said to have the ambience of a bustling railway station, that can be part of its charm (it is SoHo after all). Having said that, the rest of the picture is pretty spot on to the classic French brasserie of the early 20th century complete with red banquettes, properly weathered mirrors with wine selections emblazoned on them and a lovingly abused wooden bar. The food is also classic bistro featuring the requisite whole-roasted chicken for two, steak frites and a shelfish bar to put most others to shame. The wine list boasts more than 200 wines and the adjacent Balthazar bakery does the providing for authentic french breads. Reservations are still tricky after all these years, so a word to the wise...call in advance... they take reservations within 30 days of your anticipated arrival. Balthazar is located at 80 Spring Street [at Crosby]. 212-965-1414 www.BalthazarNY.com


• Cafe Luxembourg. Moving swiftly uptown to the Lincoln Center area, we now find ourselves at the first bistro I made my way into when I moved to New York. This staple is still serving up solid, yet adventurous bistro fair in a deco setting replete with zinc-topped bar and the required aged-mirrors. There are reasonably priced three-course prix-fixe lunch and weekend brunch menus, as well as a pre-theater menu. After the opera or theater, a supper menu is offered that features omelets, sandwiches, crispy frites and other satisfying fare. Cafe Luxembourg is located at 200 West 70th Street [between West End and Amsterdam Avenues]. 212-873-7411 http://www.cafeluxembourg.com/


• Cognac [or Brasserie Cognac de Monsieur Ballon]. Just down the Great White Way from Cafe Luxembourg is the newest entry in the French Brasserie game at the north east corner of 55th Street and Broadway. Cognac is brought to you by the clever Italian duo Fabio Granato and Vittorio Assaf of Serafina fame [which is incidentally located acoss the street at Dream]. They did bring the right pieces together to make this formula work including a Rockwellian interpretation of Parisian brasserie decor in addition to a well-trained kitchen. Executive Chef Florian V. Hugo’s unique and exciting creations include Stripped Bass with Champagne Sauce, Fine Lobster Bisque, the Tartar Royal of Corn-fed Filet Mignon with Caper Berries and Dijon Mustard and decadent Truffle Croque Monsieur and delicious Tomato and Goat Cheese Tart. Chef Hugo uses the the restaurant's namesake liqueur in a number of recipes, as a pairing to many dishes, and in a tableside flambé. Cognac is located at 1740 Broadway [at 55th Street]. 212-757-3600 www.cognacrestaurant.com


• Cafe Benoit. Inspired by the landmark Paris bistro originally opened in 1912, Alain Ducasse, with the help of his talented Chef Pierre Schaedelin, has brought a snapshot of the original Benoit to 55th Street. Escargots eaters will love the Benoit version: each plump and nicely cooked escargot hides under a crouton hood. Main dishes include an ultra-tender, lemony chicken and a mustard-encrusted braised pork shank. The day boat scallops, cooked to bring out the buttery goodness, is always a good bet. Don't skip dessert while you are there either as the chocolate fondue is worth the indulgence... and of course the wine list is well chosen and offers solid selections for virtually any budget. Cafe Benoit is located at 60 West 55th Street [between Fifth and Sixth Avenues]. 646-943-7373 www.benoit-newyork.com

Now go out an enjoy a little bit of Paris in NewYork, and be glad it wasn't me who did the cooking.